Tagged: Composite decking
- This topic has 3 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 4 months ago by Karl Harrison Landscapes Ltd.
January 29, 2013 at 9:14 am #167AnonymousInactive
I keep hearing and reading good things about Millboard decking. I’m keen to start using their products and now’s the time of year, (January), to do something about it, (pre-season).
I’ve requested a brochure from Millboard and asked if they can send a sample offcut or two, (don’t know if they do that yet).
My question(s) to those who’ve used Millboard is; Which product(s) sells best to domestic clients, do you use a hidden fixing system or face fix normally and what about the sub-frame – timber or their composite framing ?
Any other tips gratefully received.
GaryFebruary 4, 2013 at 8:22 pm #753Karl Harrison Landscapes LtdModerator
The best sellers are Enhanced Grain, Golden Oak the favorite colour but then again It depends, they hadn’t sold much Limed Oak all year then last November they sold out (1000’s of sq m)
Weathered Oak, the old looking beach worn decking is a close second with the others not really selling.
The have probably sent you a box with the whole collection by now, if not phone them and they will.
We use thousands of sq m each year, its a very good product, one that give us pretty much no come back due to product.
It is a face fixing system and due to the Lastane (like rubber) coating on the surface the screws just disappear into the board with no trace, no predrilling either. Stick to 400 centres for domestic decking, this minimizes waste and conforms to the 1.5kN loading required for domestic decks. I would stick to 150 x 47mm carcassing,
The HDPE joists take a little getting used to, you cant rebate them and the structure relies only on the bolts the fix them, also the spans for HDPE are very short which makes for a lot of substructure, the cost is already 4 x plus the price of timber so with needing more its is very expensive…If you do use HDPE allow for at least one more saw blade and 10 HSS drill bits…you’ll tear through these. Oh and don’t screw them, bolt them.
Be great if other users of Millboard could share their info…
KarlFebruary 4, 2013 at 9:21 pm #752AnonymousInactive
I have received the sample pack Karl and it’s impressive. I’m keen to remain using timber sub-frames, it’s what we’re used to and like you say, far cheaper.
I’m fired up now to start promoting the Millboard range and see what comes of it.
Thanks for the advice.February 4, 2013 at 10:39 pm #751west midlands landscapesParticipant
i second that..i try to use millboard where i can..as soon as you explain the fact its pretty much maintenance free to the client, it usually goes down well..plus from an installers point of view its a dream…wide units no pre drilling,clips,sanding,oiling..cuts well even with a hand saw if you have too!…plus the step edge and bullnose accessories can really make a difference on the look of a job…plus its made in the Midlands not china!
although the hdpe has its advantages over pine in wet conditions..ive found it a different beast entirely to work with compared to softwood..as karl has said it needs bolting..screws just wont bite..they spin and ultimately shear
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