Decking Network
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Hi Norman
To make sure your decking is warranted by the manufacturer you have to follow the instructions.
Whilst it may seem plausible to fasten at the ends for ease of board removal it would not be advisable. It won’t be covered by the warranty and the boards will move. This is for ALL decking boards and by any manufacturer including softwood, hardwood and modified wood.
Maybe best to design a few inspection hatches for maintenance, this would be normal in this instance.
Hope this helps
My pleasure Lucas.
When you have new hardwood theres are a few factors to consider.
1. The hardness of the timber will reduce the oils ability to soak in, so you should use oils appropriate for hardwood.
2. The timber will have Mill Glaze from its production. Consider a very fast spinning blade cutting the timber at high speed, it gets very hot and almost cauterises the surface.The cutters of the planer close the wood pores whilst the natural oils come to the surface of the timber through the machining heat. As the wood cools these oils produce a glaze on the surface of the wood. It is this that prevents the new oil soaking in to your timber.So, this is why its best to apply PrepDeck which opens up the surface of the timber and removes any surface film or oil. You then Neutralise this with NetTrol, now this then removes any staining as well as neutralising the effects of the Prep-deck. You can then let it dry and when it is, you then saturate your timber with something like Textrol or Aquadecks (my favourite).
A good tip is to get the oil IN the timber and not ON the timber… wet on wet application and get it saturated … Best of luck
What oil did you use Lucas. Did you pre-sand or use Netrol and jet wash prior to your oil being applied.
It may certainly be the salts in the water that has reacted with the oil. It would be wise to strip this back – try a test area with Netrol but I feel you may need Aquanett or Dilunett to strip back first (Then essential to neutralise with NetTrol). This would actually benefit if this hasn’t already been done.
Best of Luck
Karl
Dear Ian
I would suggest using either Dilunet or Aquanett from Owatrol.Follow the instructions then once the process has ben completed allow to dry then apply a water based Aquadecks for b best results.
You will certainly have to top this oil up every year…
Some oils are not really that good for exterior use… You should always follow the instructions or ask a Decking pro to do it for you.
https://www.owatroldirect.co.uk
Hope this is of some help for youKarl
Hi Mike,
Laying the decking directly onto gravel is not really a sensible approach as the frame will want to expand and contract (like all timber does) which will make the whole section move. It may also warp and rise off the ground in one or more corners as there is nothing to tie it to the ground. Correctly structured decking platform does not touch the ground, neither do the beams nor the joists… even with the best intensions in the world if you want a structure that will last then you should really commission a designer or take a look here https://deckingnetwork.com/decking-substructure/
This is a basic advice page on how to create decking structure… We can advise but only so far.
What decking brand are you considering using?
High end or not to high end…
The steel platform was a perfect example of how to design and fabricate a raised walkway platform. The problems here are that someone though that if they used over thickness IPE hardwood decking they would only fix it on one side of the board… “Its rock solid this”… “This ain’t going nowhere”… “But is 36mm thick, how can it possible move” were possible some of the comments. Then nature got in the way and does what it always does to timber fitted outside… it moved and not a lot will prevent this, except a proper design that considers the property of the timber and how it is mechanically fixed to the correctly specified substructure…
This project was a very expensive mistake and had to be removed and replaced with more expensive timber and this time fitted correctly…
The Millboard composite decking was still perfect in every way after 7-8 years. The joists Use Class III treated, fixed with stainless fixings and kept off the floor still suffered rotting.
The joists simply crumbled upon inspection. The likely cause was that that whilst sufficient gaps were left between boards they had clogged up and stopped the air from circulating.
The decking boards were lifted, joists and posts replaced and decking boards refitted.
Anyone see this recent news story?
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