Karl Harrison Landscapes Ltd
Forum Replies Created
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You’re welcome Craig
Pedestals are available from here http://www.exteriordecking.co.uk/shop/products.php?catid=78&hrcy=6
Karl
Craig McGibbon said:
Hi Karl,
Thanks for the comments.
We will be getting advice from a structural engineer prior to any decisions.
Thanks for the pedestal lead – will investigate.
With respect to access and maintenance l was considering making sections that could be de-constructed with a few bolts and moved to one side.
In the first instance one should consult a structural engineer. This will ensure a certified answer to what can and can’t be constructed, it will also indemnify you against any future issues if anything should go wrong with the roof or indeed the deck structure.
In short, to keep the point loading of the decking structure to an absolute minimum and to reduce the impact of the structure and how it interfaces with the roof materials you should use pedestals to spread the load.
Pedestals every 500mm and joists every 400mm centre will suffice for most applications, this way every square metre of decking including the structure will have the dead load divided my 6.5, thus a 45kg/sq/m load will be adequately  spread.
Be aware that should there be any issues with the roof one must remove the decking or at least part of it to gain access to the roof. Also consider creating access panels for maintenance near water outlets.
look forward to your thoughts…
Gary
Its great to read praise where praise is due, we use these screws a lot and found there is not a lot else on the market to compare them with for quality and cost.
cheers
Karl
Gary Cobb said:
I’m glad to report we’ve been using the Durafix screws from Millboard with great success. They’re far more easier to drive in and extract and the price is reasonable too.Thanks for all the excellent advice.
Gary
I have emailed Camo in the states direct, no reply at the moment.
I have also tried the UK Distributors here http://www.oscsales.co.uk/camo
Best of luck
Karl
Hi Paul
I don’t quite know whats going on here, I have emailed Kelsey on the Network and also Camo direct and thus far have had no response?Â
https://deckingnetwork.com/profile/KelseyDuda
Let me know if you get a response direct
cheers
Karl
You can see a Bamboo project here, same stuff that has been specified, Tip of the day, oil it with Cutek as soon as you can.
cheers
K
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You could try the GRK as Tim mentions, these are brilliant screws, these are best purchased via Silva Timber with the nearest place to you being in Uxbridge.
The alternatives would be,
No7 Finishing screw 63 x 4.8mm by Carpenters Mate, 316 stainless steel square drive trim head £197.20 plus vat for 2000 screws
Durafix screw 4.5 x 70mm by Millboard, 304 stainless steel Torqs 20 trim head £35.00 plus vat and delivery for 350 screws
You could ask Simpson Strong-Tie, I have no experience with these, ask for Swaneze trim head or Woodpecker Trim Head.
Let me know how you get on Gary
cheers
Karl
There is nothing wrong with applying the correct glue to decking installations.
Positives:
This will provide a sound and comprehensive installation.
This technique will remove the chances of board creek as the deck ages.
This will reduce the movement of the boards.
This is usually for higher end projects where you can charge for extras like these.
Negatives.
Probably advised to use glue as the fixings are plastic? (not strong enough to hold the deck for most hardwoods)
Cost more to install, as you can’t use cheap glue as this would be a pointless exercise most glue for this installation would be approx £8-12 plus vat per tube…and usage rate approx 1 tube per sq m.
Can’t take deck boards up easily, if at all.
Hope this assists.
cheers
Karl
Great, so when quantifying materials for your installations, do you calculate your joist and beam span depending upon what decking materials you are using for that given project. How do you convey to your guys installing where to put the beams and at what centres, same for joist centres? Or perhaps you install the whole project yourself, you would save a fortune by calculating what you are going to do – this would minimise waste and also save you time on site thinking “now where does this go”, “ah yes, that looks about right”.
I see your point about as soon as the client shows you where they want a deck you see the design… nothing wrong with this, a great selling point.Â
Be great to see you enroll for the BMTRADA decking professionals course, what do you recon..Â
Best
Karl
Hi Lee
Thanks for joining the Network, I am certain you will find what you are looking for. Can you list your expectations so that others with appropriat stock can emil you with offers.
Thickness, width, length, Air dried or Kiln dried, side fixed (plastic or stainless), finish (smooth – reeded – grooved) delivery postcode
and when you would like it delivered
Best of luck
Karl
Balau, certainly a timber to get you called back, this has caused most I know in the trade to have movement issues, There are many cost effectice solutions that would be a much better bet, better stability too.
Always best never to any substructure touching the ground and the bigger the void under the deck the longer it will last. This is because a larger space under the deck will allow greater air circulation and thus the understructure will dryout quicker after rain.
Screws would be best in stainless, carpenters mate number 10 Bugle head, 63mm x 4.8mm.
If you mail me a plan of the deck I can advise upon EC5 spans for the substructure.
basics here https://deckingnetwork.com/decking-substructure/
spec’Â here https://deckingnetwork.com/decking-resources/
Karl
